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NewstwentyfoursevenStaff trekking across the universe Chris Holland , based at Wimborne ambulance station, has trekked within 15 miles of Mount Everest and all in the name of charity. The Dorset and Somerset Air Ambulance will benefit from the commitment and determination that Chris has given to his recent venture halfway across the world. Here Chris shares his story and experience of life quite literally from a bird’s eye view. “I have previously trekked solo in Nepal and to 18000 feet in Zanskar, Northern India, but have long held the ambition to see if I could reach the 20,000 feet level. This really demanded the expertise of a reliable trekking company to organise porterage, Sherpa guides and provisions. There are limited trips each year to maximise the chances of clear views so I found out which dates were available and proceeded to try and get there, and was given the go-ahead. On 12 October I left Heathrow after putting in the hours at the gym and getting strange looks from ramblers on the coast near Durdle Door as I trudged up and down the steepest cliff path I could find! Flights were hard to get because in 2007, after several years of Maoist trouble in the trekking areas, the political situation had settled and more tourists were heading to Kathmandu. Consequently I headed out a day early and happened to meet the trek leader in Doha airport (Qatar). I had a spare day in Kathmandu awaiting the arrival of the rest of the group and was interested to see how more developed the city was compared to the mid 1980’s. The next morning we squeezed aboard the Twin Otter for the 45 minute flight to Lukla, set amongst the lush hills of the Everest region. From Lukla (2865m, 9400 ft), the approach to the Mera Himal was a wonderful walk through stunning scenery with bamboo and rhododendron forests, along cliff paths above steeply sided and rice terraced valleys, through small villages with colourful Buddhist prayer flags adorning homes and chortens (conical religious shrines). There were nine of us in the group - five Scots, one Welsh lady and three English. We gradually got above the tree line at about 3750m (12300 feet), walking through alpine meadows before the rocky screes and glacial moraines as the mountains closed in around us. We heard occasional roars of “thunder” and the group would look around for the tell-tale white clouds of an avalanche roaring down the mountain side. We stayed three nights at Khare to aid acclimatisation and during the days we walked up to increasing heights, practicing snow and ice and rope techniques as well as gasping in the “thin” air. On two consecutive mornings we heard and then spotted a rescue helicopter coming up the valley. It collected two badly frost-bitten Norwegians the first time and then a Dutch chap suffering from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). By mid-afternoon the clouds rolled up the valley to spoil the views, but after dark it cleared and the snowy peaks and glaciers high above us glistened in glorious moon and star light. Ten days later we headed up onto the Mera glacier in plastic boots and crampons, a steep snow slope to climb at the outset, before trudging across a wide snow field to High Camp at 5785m (18980 ft). This took about 7 hours. Behind us the Everest massif came into view as we passed 5400m (17700 ft). Despite the days at Khare most suffered at least mild headaches and slight nausea from the change in altitude which meant forcing oneself to replace fluids knowing full well that it risked a night trip to the loo in the freezing cold. As dusk came the moon rose and we witnessed the crisp last light on the peaks around as the temperature dropped rapidly, with Kanchenjunga golden in the distance. I was into my sleeping bags by 5p.m. to keep warm, have an early dinner and rest before another early start for summit day. It had become clear both yesterday on the glacier and throughout the night that several in the group were struggling, not just with the exertion required but also the effects of altitude as well. Three of the nine headed down at first light having started to present with the symptoms of AMS and exhaustion. So, only six of us set off at 4a.m. and as we did we could see the other trekking group further up the mountain (Jagged Globe), their presence given away by a line of lights (their head torch lights). It was a steady start in the freezing dark to begin with, on the 20 degree slopes of open snow fields, but always with the potential for hidden crevasses. By about 5.30 a.m. the first light appeared on the eastern horizon beyond Kanchenjunga but the sun didn’t warm us for a couple of hours more. I was now reduced to counting my paces between rest stops. The final effort on fixed ropes consisted of about 100m of 50 degree slope and thence onto the short ridge to the 6476m summit (21241 ft) by 10am. The great views to Everest, Lhotse, Nupste, Makalu,Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga and other Himalayan giants necessitated a few photos before the wind cooled us too much. Three of us had made it to the top plus trek leader Dave, who had indeed make it look like a stroll in the park. The atmospheric pressure on the summit of Mera was only 550mBar - little wonder that the oxygen wasn’t getting into the lungs as effectively as when at sea-level! Exhausted, but elated to have made it all the way up to above 21000 feet, I now faced the long slog down, a time when tired legs and bodies make a potentially disastrous stumble or fall more likely. Setting off at 10.30 we had an unusually warm day on the glacier, so all four of us became quite dehydrated by the time we arrived back in Khare at 4p.m., after a descent of 1586m (5200 ft). So we started to head back to Lukla the following morning. We walked with a relaxed “spring in our step” since many of us had personal altitude records, three of us had the satisfaction of gaining Mera summit and all with the experience of mountaineering in the Greater Ranges. And, above all, sharing time together in a very different environment to that which we are used to at home. After three weeks having only flannel washes in ice cold mountain streams, the hot bath back in our Kathmandu hotel was most welcome. As a group of strangers we got on well together, were well led by our ever friendly and approachable trek leader with the brilliant support of our team of porters, cooks and Sherpas. We went on our separate ways with memories of a great three weeks in the high mountains.” Chris is still collecting his sponsorship money, which I am sure you will all agree, is extremely well deserved. If anyone wishes to contribute please send to Chris Holland at Wimborne Ambulance Station in Dorset (cheques to “Dorset & Somerset Air Ambulance”). Any queries please e-mail publicrelations@swast.nhs.uk. |
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